Our aim today was to walk
to the other side of the harbour and to find the restaurant
where we would be dining this evening. Geoff also had
some ideas about a few additional places of interest for
us to explore.
Local fisherman sell their
catches directly to the public from the back of their
boats.
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The cathedral, as seen
from the other side of the harbour, is clearly Trani's most
recognisable feature. |
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We walked up to the
largest public garden in the city. It occupies a terrace
overlooking the sea, surrounded by the ramparts of the ancient
fortifications of the city and surrounded on three sides
by the sea. |
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Adjacent to the garden,
is the Arco dei Militari, which leads to the best panoramic
view across the harbour. |
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In a lovely square overlooking
the port stands the Baroque church of Our Lady of Mount
Carmel, built in the seventeenth century on the ruins of
the earlier Church of San Giovanni della Penna. Its Neoclassical
bell tower was added in 1863. Dedicated to the patron saint
of sailors and fishermen, the church is aptly known as the
“Sailors’ Church”, thanks to its prominent
position by the harbour. |
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We continued our walk
through the lanes of the old town. |
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The Sant'Anna
Synagogue Museum was originally completed in 1247 as
the Scolagrande Synagogue (Great Synagogue), to serve Trani's
prominent medieval Jewish community. Religious persecution
forced many local Jews to convert to Christianity and in
1380, the Roman Catholic Church acquired it, along with
the other three synagogues in the town. It eventually became
known as Saint Anne (Sant'Anna). In 2004 it was deconsecrated
and returned to the Jewish community, after which it became
known by its current name. Two of the remaining synagogues
were destroyed in 1700 leaving one, the Scolanova
Synagogue (which we didn't visit). |
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We loved the character
of this city. There was some form of distraction around
every corner. |
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No surprise with
our choice of venues for our last lunch and dessert!
It was back to the Bianco Yogurt Cafe (where they greeted
us like long lost friends), followed by gelato at Babayaga! |
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Later, Bruce decided
to climb the 269 steps up to the top of the cathedral's
bell tower. He had been toying with the idea since we arrived
and it was now or never! |
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Geoff took photos of
him from below. |
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The climb up, on a modern
staircase, was relatively painless and the views were really
good. Unfortunately it wasn't possible to go outside at
the top, hence the views are all through the railings. |
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Geoff looked really small
from the top of the tower. |
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On the way down, it was
possible to go onto a landing overlooking the interior of
the cathedral. |
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Yet another photo of
our hotel! |
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| Before dinner, we finished off the excellent
sweet wine that we had bought at the Apulian speciality shop
a couple of days before. |
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Earlier, we walked past
Terradimare, the restaurant where we would be dining this
evening. |
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On the basis that we
would keep the best till last, it was finally time to put
our theory to the test. First impressions were very good.
A calm and inviting interior and very friendly staff. Of
course, at 8:00pm, we were the first to arrive... as usual!
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Based on our menu choices,
we chose a half bottle of each of the red and white to match
the courses we were having. |
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Geoff's ordered starter
- roasted cuttlefish, "its fifth quarter", white
beans and black garlic. |
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Bruce had the smoked
aubergine, fig syrup and miso, baked tomato preserve, burrata
cheese and basil as his starter (not photographed). |
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Geoff main course -
handmade tortelli, aubergines (replaced by parmesan sausage,
we think), tomato, smoked provola sauce and olives. |
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Bruce chose the cod in oil, with tomato,
capers and olives (also not photographed).
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For dessert, Geoff had
the crispy honey puff (Sfoglia croccante al miele) with
diplomat cream, apricot and vanilla. |
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Bruce chose the passion
fruit soufflé and Valrhona Tulakalum 75% chocolate
(completed with a puff of vanilla from an old-fashioned
perfume atomiser!). It was absolutely perfectly done and
delicious. |
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A very elegant looking
glass of grappa for Geoff. |
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This had been our
most expensive meal of the holiday, but not by a huge
margin and once again we were pleasantly surprised by
how much further money goes in Puglia, compared with
other regions of Italy, not to mention back home in
London! If we return to Trani one day (and we would
like to do so very much), we will definitely make a
point ot returning to Terradimare. |
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A bit of fun art in the
restaurant's toilets! |
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The food absolutely
lived up to our expectations and proved to be a delicious
and fitting end to our stay in Trani. |
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