Armed with a map, we spent
most of the day exploring Trani. We didn't always know
what we were looking at and we didn't have any specific
targets in mind, apart from visiting the cathedral. Instead,
we enjoyed walking up and down the narrow lanes looking
at the interesting buildings, occasionally dodging vehicles
and just soaking up the atmosphere of the place. We also
bought some local Puglian wine and snacks and found a
rather nice little bar/cafe for a light lunch. We liked
it so much that returned there on the following two days.
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We stumbled upon the
family-owned Bottega Di Lernia, where they spoke excellent
English and gave us some good information about the local
wines. We bought what turned out to be a delicious rosé
wine, something we don't normally drink. |
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We returned to the hotel
to drop off our wine purchase and decided to visit Trani
Cathedral. Unlike yesterday, when there was a group
visiting it, today it was all quiet and so we could go inside
and have the place almost to ourselves. |
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Afterwards, we resumed
our random exploration. What surprised us was the size of
the place. We had assumed that Trani was a really small
seaside town, but it was considerably bigger than that,
whilst still retaining a small town feel. |
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We returned to Delizie
Pugliesi for more Apulian specialities. By coincidence,
right next door is Trattoria La Casalinga, where we would
be having dinner this evening. Geoff read the reviews before
we left home and reserved a table. Now we didn't have to
search for it later on! |
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"Born of noble intentions,
with a poor woman, he was born in a stable,
wrapped in swaddling clothes with Christ.
Saint Francis of Assisi, patron saint of Italy
In the cosmic love of brotherhood,
he added to the immortal man
humility in the fleeting power
of peace among humankind.
1182–1982
On the eighth centenary of his birth,
in memory of the Franciscan Third Order,
4 October 1982." |
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After walking for a
few hours, we wanted to sit down and have a drink, without
necessarily having lunch. We found the ideal place at the
Bianco Yogurt Cafe. We sat and relaxed with a drink and
watched the world go by. |
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Feeling slightly peckish,
we had a couple of the light bites that were on offer. They
were delicious. The lady who served us was eager to serve
us and we decided that we would probably return here some
time before the end of our stay. |
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Castello
di Trani, the Swabian
castle, is a 13th-century fortress begun under Emperor Frederick
II in 1233 and located a short distance from Trani Cathedral. |
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As tempting as it looked,
we didn't pay to go inside, because it was getting late
and we didn't feel that we could do it justice. |
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Geoff took lots of photos
of windows. Later, he started taking photos of doorways. |
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Taken from the other
side of the harbour, where the Port of Trani is located. |
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An overdue visit to the
gelateria! |
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Staged wedding photos.
We overheard the photographer telling the couple to "act
like you are already married!". |
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Pre-dinner drinks on
our balcony. We were really enjoying the excellent rosé
that we had acquired earlier. |
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It was dark before we
set out for our evening meal... |
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... at Trattoria La Casalinga.
Once again, we were the first to arrive! |
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A bit surprisingly,
there were no menus. Before long, food started to appear.
We thought this might be to whet our appetites before being
presented with a menu (a bit like our experience in Trieste
in 2023). Then, red wine appeared and more food with it.
More people started to arrive and they all got the same
treatment. The realisation dawned that perhaps they thought
we were here for the tasting menu. We decided to relax and
just enjoy the experience, because everything was absolutely
delicious! |
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Yet more dishes kept
arriving... |
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...and
we were quite relieved when our waitress informed us, in rather
stilted English, that these were the last two. By this time, we
were feeling rather full! |
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What she actually meant
was that those were the last two starter dishes. There were
three courses still to come! The pasta course was next,
but by this time we didn't think we could manage any more,
so we asked for one plate to share. We declined the next
course altogether, but others around us were given large
portions of chicken. |
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Finally, the dessert.
Tiramisu, naturally! |
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Geoff enjoyed an orange
version of limoncello at the end of the meal. We then asked
for the bill and, between us, speculated that it would be
around €150 because we had eaten more than last night
which had cost around €130. Imagine our surprise when
it arrived and was only €60. No wonder the place had
such excellent reviews online! |
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We returned to our hotel
feeling very full, but quite pleased that we had eaten a
delicious and rather wholesome meal. |
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