Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 
Greece

A walk along the seafront, visiting a Mosque and eating a gözleme in Izmir

 
Saturday 4th October 2014
 
It is a fair distance between Bodrum and Izmir and our ship was not scheduled to arrive until 2.00pm, so we had a quiet morning. We went to a lecture about Troy (we were due to visit it in a couple of days time) and found it very interesting.
We loved having a cabin with a balcony, so that we could spend time there quietly when we wanted to.
 
Just before lunch, Izmir's impressive skyline came into view with the new twin Folkart Towers dominating.
We docked behind this elegant Silversea ship.

This afternoon's excursion was to the ancient site of Ephesus. We had been there two years previously and it was one of the highlights of that trip, but as we had seen it and had not seen Izmir (we docked at Kusadasi last time), we decided to explore the city instead. Susan, on the other hand, went on the excursion.

Armed with our maps, we set off on foot. (We could have used the shuttle bus, but felt that we needed a walk - all the good food and drink on the ship was beginning to have an effect!)

Izmir (formerly Smyrna) is located at the far end of the long and narrow Gulf of Izmir. It is the third largest city and the second largest harbour in Turkey and is also known as “The Pearl of the Aegean". The guide book states that it is a lively and pleasant modern city rising in tiers on the slopes of the surrounding mountains, with broad avenues, lined by palm trees.

 

Today was the first day of the Festival of Sacrifice, a four day holiday in Turkey. We had been advised that nothing much would be open, but we were surprised by just how quiet the city was. It was all but deserted.
 
 

As we walked along the seafront, we noticed several of these unusual looking water containers. The dogs seemed to like them, but then they did look a bit like toilets!

 
We don't know what this striking sculture is meant to represent and further research has proved inconclusive. The only reference to be found is on google maps as "Gündogdu Myd."
 
 
This bouncy prototype dock looked like fun, but we weren't going to risk trying it out for ourselves.
 
Our guide notes suggested that we pay a visit to Saint Polycarpe church, one of the oldest standing churches in Izmir. Unfortunately, it was closed and we didn't get to see the interior, which is apparently well worth seeing.
Despite the almost deserted streets, one man did manage to spot us and give us a card advertising his brother's leather shop in the bazaar - the only shop open in the bazaar today, he confidently told us!
 
This doorway looked like it might have led somewhere significant, but I now think it's just a local government office.

 

 
We found the Mosque, which, like everything else so far, was almost deserted.
Inside, there was a solitary worshipper.
 

We liked the interior very much.
Something about it reminded me of the
Süleymaniye Mosque in Istanbul.

 

 
After leaving the Mosque, we wandered past the elegant walls of the (closed!) bazaar.
 
 
Video: Standing and listening to the sounds of music from a nearby cafe and just enjoying the tranquility of Izmir.
We haven't been here before, but we suspect that this is unusual for the city!
 
 
More largely deserted streets, but some of the cafes were beginning to shows signs of life.
It was then that Geoff spotted this lady making a local delicacy, the gözleme.
   
 
   
Finally, some people!
We were in Konak Square.
The Clock Tower
 
 
Against Bruce's better judgement, Geoff dragged him back to the "Carsi Cafe"(!) to sample one of those gözlemes.
 
 

It was delicious!

 

 

Afterwards, we had to make a decision. Take the shuttle bus back to the ship from the meeting point in Konak Square, or retrace our steps and walk all the way back to the port. It was at least an hour's walk, but it was such a pleasant day and with people now much more in evidence, we decided that it might be interesting to meander back slowly on foot. It was the right decision.

 

We enjoyed seeing all the activity; from coffee sellers to men selling fresh muscles with lemon, to groups of family members taking photos of one another.

 
 
As we got closer to the port, the area began to look more prosperous. We decided to stop at a cafe for a drink and some free wi-fi.

As the light started to fade, we walked on slowly back to the ship.

We were going to be in port overnight so there was no rush to get back.

 

We were amused to find this note in our cabin when we returned to the ship. It was accompanied by a bottle of wine.

We didn't know at that stage that the party was being held directly below us!

Geoff put in his ear plugs and wasn't disturbed by it, but Bruce heard most of it.

Nevertheless, the celebrations sounded like a lot of fun and at 1.00am precisely, the noise stopped!

 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble