Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 
Greece

Horticultural hotspots & architectural anomalies in balmy Batumi

 
Friday 10th October 2014
 
At the risk of sounding repetitive and boring, we awoke to yet another beautiful dawn as we approached the Georgian port of Batumi.
The overnight voyage from Trabzon to Batumi had been a shortish one, but our experience of the country we were about to visit would make the distance seem a lot further in cultural terms.
 
 
 
 
Even from this distance, we could tell that today was going to be a somewhat different experience.
 
Batumi is the capital of Adjara, an autonomous republic in southwest Georgia. The climate is sub-tropical. It is affected by the onshore flow from the Black Sea and the mountains which surround it. It also has signficant rainfall all year round, with few extremes of temperature. We were very fortunate to be here on a beautifully sunny, warm and dry day.
 
The skyline is strange. Not having done any research about the city or the country beforehand, we wondered how to interpret what we were seeing! Our first impression was of a quiet, pleasant, clean and interesting town, despite the odd looking buildings.

The only reference I can find to this structure is that it is a "sculpture with Georgian language as genetic code".


The place where we docked, very close to the centre of town, looked pleasant and welcoming, although finding the way out didn't seem clear!
We could see coaches waiting for us. We were looking forward to getting off the ship and seeing more of this unusual place.
Some passengers had chosen to visit a fort today, but we had elected to go to the botanical gardens, located just outside the city.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
From the gardens, we could look back at Batumi's skyline and see our ship (on the left).
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
After a very pleasant morning walking around the gardens and having the various zones explained to us, we were taken back into town.
Once we got back into the centre of town, the rest of the guided tour was done on foot.
 
There was a lot of the new...
...and rather less of the old.
Church of Saint Nicholas
 
The city is a strange confection of the old and the new, made to look like the old.
Piazza Square with its distinctly Italian feel is a little incongruous for Georgia, but in Batumi, when it comes to architecture, it seems anything goes! The Square covers about 5700 square metres and is surrounded by the Piazza complex, which includes a hotel, a couple of restaurants, a café and a pub. The architecture is distinguished by mosaics and stained glass art.
   
 
Church of Saint Nicholas
The church, built by the Greek community in 1865, was the only church in Batumi to survive the Soviet era without devastation. Though closed in the 1930s, it was reopened after 10-12 years when women petitioned following World War II. Residents came in secret for services in both Georgian and Russian. The exterior was restored in 1998 and the interior in 1999. At that time icons of St. Nicholas, St. George and the Theotokus were brought from the Greek island Khiros.
 
   
 
 
Some nice examples of the more traditional buildings. It seems a pity that money couldn't have been spent on more buldings like these.
 
 
 
Some of the newer buildings left us lost for words!
 
This building, with what looks like a smaller version of the London Eye built into the side of it, is simply bizarre.
 
Statue of Medea
European Square
 
Disneyland?
 
 
   
Primorsky Park, founded in 1884, with its colonnade and musical fountains
 
 

The town seemed eerily quiet. Where were all the people? Perhaps they all come out at night?

This BBC piece explains more about the city than we were able to uncover during our short stay.

 
 
 
 
 
 
At the end of the official tour, we strolled back to the ship for lunch. For dessert, Bruce had the pistacchio ice-cream, which was delicious!
After lunch and with a free afternoon, we decided to walk back through the town to see if we could find any more people.
 
   
We did see a few more people this time, but not that many.
The Church of the Mother of God is a Georgian Orthodox cathedral, originally built as a Catholic church early in the 1900s. During the Soviet period the church was closed and converted into a high-voltage laboratory. In 1989 the church was transferred to the Georgian Orthodox Church.
Geoff's keen eye for health and safety picked up several risks that concerned him. Here are three examples.
   
The older buildings seemed quite neglected. We felt that we had to photograph them, because they probably wouldn't be around for long!
 
Back on board, we were treated to a superb performance of Georgian dancing. What a treat!
   
 
Video: Dancing 1
Video: Dancing 2
Video: Dancing 3
Video: Dancing 4
Video: Dancing 5
Video: Dancing 6
 
 
 

As the shadows lengthened, it was time for us to sail once again.

We left the port on schedule at 5.00pm and it would be 45 hours before we would see land again at our next port of call, Constanta.

 
   
 
 
 
 
We will never forget our day in Batumi. We were still scratching our heads, trying to work it out, as the shoreline retreated.
 
 
 
 
 
 
After one of the best sunsets of the trip so far, we were in for another treat later that evening. Our cruise director Neil interrupted dinner to tell us that we should make the effort to go on deck to see the blood moon, caused by a lunar eclipse. It was an amazing sight.
 
Video: Blood Moon
 
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble