Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 

Constanta: Revisiting the museum, climbing the tower and a reunion!

 
Sunday 12th October 2014
 

At times during our 45 hour east-to-west voyage across the centre of the Black Sea, we noticed that several birds, of different breeds, were flying around the ship and landing on the deck. We weren't sure whether some of them had unwittingly hitched a ride with us from Georgia and now had to wait until we were within reach of dry land in Romania, or whether they were simply long distance fliers who had spotted the ship and were popping in for an opportunistic morsel.

 

This little Robin was sitting on our balcony when we were still more than 160 miles from the nearest land. Was it our imagination or did he look exhausted, balancing himself by resting his tail on the deck?

 
Our expectations, for this section of the itinerary, were low. Firstly, we weren't looking forward to the long crossing of the Black Sea, because we feared that it might be quite rough. Secondly, we had visited the city of Constanta more than 11 years before, as part of a river cruise from Vienna and we weren't too impressed by the place then. Our misgivings were unfounded. The Black Sea crossing was calm, sunny and very relaxing and we enjoyed a lovely afternoon exploring the city of Constanta independently.
 
 

We arrived at the entrance to the port of Constanta at around 11:00am, slightly earlier than scheduled and were joined by the Romanian pilot.

 

 

 

 

 

From what we could see, the port was well protected from the sea and it was quite a long way (4 or 5 kms perhaps) before we actually got to our docking location, about an hour later.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
It was lovely to see a very familiar ship, the Island Sky, docked just across from where we were about to dock. In 2011 we sailed around the Baltic on this ship and we have another cruise already booked for July 2015! It got even better when Bruce discovered that the cruise director from our earlier voyage was currently on the ship. We decided that it might be nice to try and see him... more later!
 
 
Once again, we decided to skip the organised tour today. Although it included some sights in the city centre that we wanted to return to, it also included a trip out to the Murfatlar vineyard, with its folkloric show and wine tasting, both of which we had experienced in 2003 and had no desire to repeat! We had a quick bite to eat and then set off on foot. The walk from the port into town was slightly longer (and slightly duller) than anticipated, but there were some interesting sights along the way. Looking back, it was quite fun to get a photo of our two favourite ships in one photo.
The local blood bank?
"Welcome to Constanta" (at the port entrance)
These map shows the area we were about to explore.
 
Immediately, things began to look familiar...This photo was taken in May 2003 - spot the differences! to see a photo we had taken at this spot 11 years previously.
Constanta's casino building is arguably the city's most famous landmark. It is an imposing building, built more than 130 years ago, but has definitely seen better decades. One guide book says that it "watches the Black Sea", which might possibly have been better translated as "guards the Black Sea". Either way, it sounds about right, because it does have a commanding position.
 
The Cathedral of Saint Peter and Saint Paul
Ruins of the ancient city of Tomis, adjacent to the cathedral.
 
The cathedral, built between 1883 and 1885, is situated in the historic area of the city, close to the seafront boulevard and the casino.
 
 
Work on the original interior painting of the church was started in 1888, three years after completion of construction. The task was given to Demetrescu Mirea, a famous painter of the time. Instead of traditional Byzantine painting, Mirea preferred a more realistic style, assigning the saints personalities and bearing the faces of people from everyday life in Constanta. This triggered a scandal and shocked the Orthodox Church. They refused to consecrate the cathedral and requested emergency changes to the paintings. After nearly a decade, during which time the church did not function, the Ministry of Culture approved the consecration of the shrine in 1895 with all of the existing paintings. Sadly, none of the original paintings remain, because the church was destroyed in the second world war and was rebuilt in 1951 with quite a different artistic style.
 
 
 
St. Nicholas Bulgarian Basilica
 

 
The Folk Art Museum was built in 1893 but has only been used as a museum since 1975. The guide book states that as an institution, it "continues to be a remarkable presence in a world where traditions, customs, folklore and Romanian garb are threatened by excessive modernization that swept the society".
 
The city centre was strangely quiet and largely deserted. Perhaps this is normal for a Sunday afternoon, because our recollection from our last visit in 2003, was of a very busy city with cars everywhere!
   
Some parts of the city were looking a little more upmarket than we remembered it, but this wasn't the case everywhere.
 

The Greek Church "Metamorphosis" is a small sanctuary located in the historic area of the city, close to the modern beach. Building was completed in 1867 when this region, Dobrogea, was part of the Ottoman Empire and it became the first Christian place of worship in Constanta. It was built with the consent of the Sultan Mehmet Han Bin Abdul Aziz, who responded positively to a request by the Greek community to build a place of worship in the area, on condition that it should not be higher than any mosque in the city and that it was built at a distance from the Turkish district.

Until 1948, Greek priests officiated, but with the departure of the last greek priest this task was taken over by Romanian priests. In 1974, financial difficulties forced the Greek committee, which managed the church, to transfer jurisdiction to the Romanian Orthodox Church. Although it is no longer a formal place of worship for Greeks, there is an annual celebration, the feast of Saint Fanourios, on 27th August for the city's ethnic Greeks. The building is now a historical and cultural monument.

The Greek Church "Metamorphosis".
Even the beach looked deserted, despite the weather being fine.
 
Ovidiu Square. What an improvement there had been since our last visit in 2003, when it was clogged with traffic.
 
 
The National History and Archaeology Museum of Constanta is one of the richest museums in Romania and the second largest in the country, after the National History Museum in Bucharest.
 
Our first attempt to get into the museum was unsuccessful. No local currency, no entry!
Luckily we found an ATM and acquired 50 Lei (about £10). We were in business!

 
 
The collection consists of over 430,000 objects dating from the Paleolithic to modern times. Included are Greek, Romanian, Byzantine and medieval objects (stone, bronze and iron tools and weapons), ceramics, antique architectural elements (columns, capitals, pediments, scenery, etc..), ancient sculptures, glass vases, bronze statues, jewelry, coins (the collection includes silver, bronze and gold coins, some of them unique), icons, documents, maps, models, photographs, telegrams, magazines, objects of some personalities of the early twentieth century, furniture and other objects of great historical significance.
 
The Glykon Snake - a unique piece in the world, representing a deity of the romanian mythology (II century BC)
Fortuna with Pontos - protective deities of Tomis city and harbor (II-III century BC)
 
 
 
   
 
 
 
 
After an interesting visit, we went on to the Roman mosaic building close by.
The Roman Mosaic building is located close to the Museum of National History and Archaeology and was discovered in 1959 when other work was being done in Ovidiu Square. Further research discovered that the monument was built in the fourth century and gradually spread until around the sixth century, when it stopped. In its glory times the edifice represented the largest building of its kind in the whole Roman Empire and served as a link between the port and the ancient city. Originally, the building spanned three of the four terraces of the Tomis harbour waterfront. The first terrace was located at the current Ovidiu Square and connected with one of the ancient city's public markets. Some huts and an impressive hall with a mosaic pavement occupied the next terrace of the building. The mosaic hall represents the actual place of meeting of the merchants and officials of that time. The last terrace was situated on the ancient harbor quays. The building was equipped with a rainwater drainage system. With the fall of the Tomis fortress in the sixth century, the building was not maintained and degraded. However, being made of good quality mosaic the floor has been preserved very well. Of a total area of 2000 square metres of mosaic pavement, only an area of about 850 square metres is preserved.
 
 
An unusal architectural style... wonder how that got past the planning stage?
Carol Mosque
 
 
 

Carol I Mosque, named after King Carol I, is located in the Ovidiu Square area. Construction started in 1910 and was completed in 1913. The building contains a unique mixture of Egyptian, Byzantine and Romanian architectural styles. The 47 metre high minaret dominates the area. There are 140 steps up to the terrace at the top of the minaret, with a seemingly endless spiral staircase (which Bruce can confirm!), from where there is lovely view of the city and the harbour.

The mosque has many heritage objects, among which is the Abdul Hamid carpet, one of the oldest oriental rugs in Europe. The carpet, which has an area of 144 square meters and weighs about 500 kilograms, was donated by the sultan of the island of Ada Kaleh (a piece of land located in the middle of the Danube, 3 kilometers downstream from Orsova). The island sank in 1970 (following the Iron Gates dam project), and the carpet was donated to the mosque of Constanta.

 
   
 
 
 
 

As the guide book predicted, the views from the top of the tower were lovely.

Geoff decided not to brave the "endless spiral staircase" and as there were no other takers, Bruce got to experience it for himself!

 
 
 
   
Another quote from the guide book: "The touristic harbour of Tomis is one of Constanta's most famous locations for both tourists and locals. Whatever the season, it is the place of choice for people who want to admire the sea or just walk on the seafront and where luxury yachts and sailing boats rest. Waterfront terraces and numerous chic restaurants serving fish dishes can be enjoyed".
 
 
Our ship in the distance... a good feeling to see it there awaiting our return.
 
 
Geoff looking up at me enviously (or is that thankfully?)
 
 
Feeling tired, but happy, we walked slowly back to the port.
After another lovely late afternoon tea on board, Bruce decided to disembark once again and go into the terminal building to make use of the free wi-fi. Within minutes of sitting down, who should walk in but Jannie, cruise director from the Island Sky. They spent half an hour chatting and exchanging stories since last meeting three years before.
 
Another departure, another stunning sunset!
 
 
 
Goodbye to Constanta and to the Island Sky - we hope to see you again next year in Edinburgh!
Next stop Burgas and the nearby city-museum of Nessebur.
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble