Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

A visit to Freixo de Numão in the Côa Valley, then sail from Pocinho to Pinhão

Sunday 19th November 2023

We had arrived at the small dock at Pocinho after dark last evening. Located close to the Côa River, a tributary of the Douro running north to south, we were in the Côa Valley where we would be spending the morning. There were two excursions on offer. One to a museum containing paleolithic tools, the other to the village of Freixo de Numão, where we would see caramelised almonds being prepared and also drink some (more!) port. It will come as no surprise then that we chose the latter!

Looking out of our cabin window, it appeared to be another misty start to the day.

 
The young man in charge of cooking breakfasts to order was the most cheerful and charming person. He greeted everybody warmly and seemed to really enjoy his job. Neither of us eats much at breakfast, but Katia was a regular customer.
 
Setting off from Pocinho as we drove along the Côa Valley.
 
From the dock (top right), we drove south along the IP2 (a major road linking the north to the south of the country), before turning off to the village of Freixo de Numão. On the way back, we took a different route, driving north through Vila Nova de Foz Côa. This road is mostly at a higher level than the main road and affords excellent views of the countryside.
 
It was still rather misty when we arrived in the village of Freixo de Numão.
 
Our guide met the coach in the village. He was a lovely man, who spoke flawless English. He was passionate about the history of this village, parts of it dating back 400 years, and in making sure that we knew every detail about it!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The Pillory of Freixo de Numão
 
 
Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception.
 
 
 
Adjacent to the little chapel is a family estate, Casa Painova, built in 1652. We went inside for a tour which was followed by almond and port tasting.
 
 
 
 
 
 
Almonds are harvested on the estate and after the tour of the house, we were led into the courtyard, where this lady gave us a step by step demonstration of how the almonds are caramelised, assisted by her grandson, who was tasked with cracking them open.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We were then invited to taste the freshly prepared almonds, along with some port. Of course, there was a shop where we bought several packets to take home with us. There were also olive products and port for sale, but we contented ourselves with the almond purchases.
 
 
After a most enjoyable morning in the village, it was time to go back to the ship via a different route.
 
Looking down into the valley and to the road we had taken on the way to the village.
 
 
Arriving back at the ship, it was clear that the possibility of rain had scuppered chances of the planned barbeque lunch on the top deck.
 
Instead, the barbeque theme had been moved into the main dining room.
 
 
During lunch, we left Pocinho and began sailing towards our next destination, Pinhão, where we were expected to arrive at around 5:30pm.
 
Almost immediately, we descended through the lock at the Pocinho Dam.
 
Our route covered today (from right to left).
 
Once again, in the context of the whole river.
 
 
As we sailed, the highlight of the afternoon on board was a demonstration of how to make pastel de nata (pastéis de nata in Portuguese), also known as pastel de Belem.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
After eating our fill of pastel de nata (can one ever have enough?) we looked out and spotted that we were about to go under the rather low Ferradosa Railway Bridge.
 
 
 
 
Not long after that, we descended through the lock at the Valeira Dam.
 
Late afternoon and Pinhão, our final destination for today, came into view.
 
 
 
 
The prime docking location was already occupied...
 
...so we docked nearby...
 
...alongside one of Scenic's sister ships, the Emerald Radiance.
 
Today's treats weren't over just yet. Our speciality dining experience was booked in for this evening!
 
 

We enjoyed all the courses very much and thought we might be far too full for dessert, but somehow we managed.

Three traditional Portuguese desserts, which included almond tart (Port. tarte de amêndoa), Portuguese custard (creme brulee) (Port. leite creme) and egg pudding (Port. Pudim de ovos).

 
Our dining companions for the evening returned to their cabin to find that our very own William Bear had been celebrating there with his newly found friends. All three were slightly worse for wear!
 
At the end of what had been a lovely day, we admired the lights of Pinhão before going to bed. We were due to be here all day tomorrow so we would have plenty of time to explore the place.
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble