Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Morning trip to Freixo de Espada à Cinta then an afternoon walk into Spain

Saturday 18th November 2023
We awoke to a slightly misty morning in Barca d'Alva. We could see a lone fisherman in his little boat just beyond the bridge, but there was no sign of the Spanish port of Vega de Terron beyond, which we were able to see quite clearly late yesterday afternoon.
 
Our excursion this morning would take us on a 23km coach drive wholly within Portugal, to Freixo de Espada à Cinta, starting off by crossing the above bridge (bottom left on the map below). The majority of others on the ship chose the full day excursion to the Spanish city of Salamanca. We did consider it, but decided that it was a rather long drive (two hours each way) so a morning trip, with lunch back on the ship and free time in the afternoon sounded more appealing.
 
First things first, however. Today was our anniversary and perhaps we have been together too long, because we bought each other the same cards!
 
Leaving the ship after breakfast for our excursion, we realised that there might not be a lot to see this afternoon for our afternoon at leisure in Barca d'Alva.
 
Crossing the bridge on the coach as we set off. Our beautiful ship in the foreground.
 
The road was twisty...very twisty, as we followed the river separating Portugal and Spain, which was on the other side. Geoff became quieter and quieter. He was starting to feel queasy. Fortunately, for the last part of the drive, the road straightened and we were soon at our destination.
 
Tungsten extraction, we were informed.
 
 
 
 
Arriving in Freixo de Espada à Cinta, we were met by a local guide and began our walking tour of the town.
 
 
 
"Located on Rua de São Francisco, the Casa Junqueiro Regional Museum occupies the ground floor of what was the house of José António Junqueiro, father of the poet Guerra Junqueiro and popularly known as “Junqueiro Velho”. Ethnographic in nature and regional in nature, the rooms (6 in total) reflect a social and economic experience typical of a wealthy house from the second half of the 19th century (this is the case of the Dressing Room) and some years of the 20th century, where a faithful reproduction of the attic, an old traditional and local trade, is featured."
 
 
 
 
Leaving the museum, we walked a short distance towards a looming tower.
 
 
 
 
Behind the church, on the left, is the Castle of Freixo de Espada-à-Cinta. The ash tree in the foreground is more than 550 years old!
 
 
Click on the image below to see the text clearly.
 
 
Bruce couldn't resist the urge to climb to the top.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Geoff was quite content to view it from different angles at ground level.
 
 
 
 
We visited the silk museum.
 
 
 
 
 
There are usually quite a few people working here, but being a Saturday, it was a bit quiet.
 
There was, however, one lady who gave us a bit of a demonstration.
 
We got back on the coach for a short drive out of the town to Quinta do Salgueiro for refreshments.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
The owner was a lovely lady called Margarida (a.k.a. "The Boss Lady", according to her website) who spoke really good English. She welcomed us warmly and led us into the dining room, where we were treated to a selection of her home-grown produce, including shared plates of almonds and olives followed by Madeira cake served with mint or lemon tea. We had to hold back slightly, because we were due back at the ship for lunch!
 
After the farm visit, we got back on the coach for our return trip to the ship. To take Geoff's mind off the twists and turns we concentrated on admiring the beautiful scenery.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Lunch back on board was served in the smaller Portobellos restaurant because there weren't many of us to feed. Afterwards, we decided to take advantage of the beautiful day and see if we could walk across the border into Spain. We took our passports with us, just in case, but we didn't need them.
 
Starting off from the docking area in Barca d'Alva...
 
...we walked through the village and then followed the bank of the river. Looking at the route on this map, it seemed that we might be able to walk across the disused railway bridge...
 
...but when we got to the bridge, it was way up there and we were down here, with no way of getting to it.
 
We decided to carry on walking rather than retrace our steps.
 
A bit further along, we walked under the road bridge, which was also inaccessible from where we were.
 
We then had no choice but to turn right, away from the river and the bridge, for a long detour as we gradually ascended to a point where the track met the road, from where we could turn back again and cross the road bridge into Spain.
 
The railway bridge, as seen from the road bridge.
 
 
Half way across the road bridge, we crossed the border...
 
 
...and then we were in Spain. We had walked almost 3km to get to this point.
 
 
 
From the Spanish side, it was quite easy to climb up to the railway line.
 
 
We noticed that some people were walking across the bridge so we decided to do the same.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We crossed back into Portugal.
 
Looking back, it became clear that crossing the bridge by foot was prohibited from the Portuguese side. We saw no such signs coming the other way.
 
We followed the line all the way back to Barca d'Alva.
 
 
 
 
 
The sight of the disused station at Barca d'Alva was sad to see. The link provided gives some history about it and the 21st century attempts to reopen the line, so far without success.
 
 
 
Back on the ship and shortly after the arrival back of our fellow passengers after their day trip to Salamanca, we departed from Barca d'Alva and began sailing downstream for the first time. It was only a two hour trip to the town of Pocinho, were we arrived after dark and stayed overnight.
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble