Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Veliko Tarnovo: 24th May 2003

 
 
 
 
   
This was our first day in Bulgaria. It was warm and sunny with a clear blue sky – I liked it already.

We left Russe at 09:00 in a rather suspect-looking bus with a very dodgy aircon system. Quite a few people decided not to sit with their partners, just to ring the changes I suppose, and I sat in the front with Sheri.

Our local Bulgarian guide, Albina, was charming. She told us that today was "Bulgarian Culture and Cyrillic Alphabet Day" and therefore a national holiday. What more can I say?

It took 2 hours to get to Abanasi from where we were due to visit a nunnery. But neither our local Bulgarian guide nor the driver were sure how to get there. There were some discussions in Bulgarian on the mobile phone and after some reversing and driving down some very narrow country lanes were arrived at a small but pretty looking nunnery. There was only one loo in the whole place for the whole coach, so Bruce and I found a quiet corner where we closely inspected the stonework… The views of the town were lovely.

It soon became clear that we were the only ones to have found the place as the other coaches never turned up.
   
We left to visit the town itself. It’s a medieval town with a number of old houses where merchants lived in the 17th Century, trading silver. There were many people willing to remove the burden of wealth from the merchants, so the houses were heavily fortified. We visited one house.
   
The guide was really sweet with excellent English and a charming accent. The house itself was interesting, with beautiful decorated plasterwork ceilings and massive couches which were clearly influenced by the Ottoman Empire. The guide also told us that the area was famous for growing roses and producing attar of roses: in the souvenir shop I bought a small vial for my Mother.
   
We then walked up the road to a Bulgarian restaurant for lunch. It was very good indeed: first, a cold soup made from cucumber, fennel, onion and yoghurt; then a salad of tomato, cucumber, and a grated white soft cheese. Next was a chicken and vegetable casserole, and finally a baklava. As we were eating our last course and wondering where the other two coaches were, the skies opened and as thunder boomed and lighting flashed, our fellow travellers dashed into the restaurant, dripping. As we left the restaurant, we bumped into Steffi and Irina having a quiet ciggie. They ran off in a fit of giggles like schoolgirls. We asked them later what was wrong? They told us that they must not smoke in front of guests as it is "unprofessional". We assure them their secret is safe with us. Until now, that is!
   
Luckily, the rain stopped as suddenly as it started and we were off to visit Veliko Tàrnovo, a town perched up in the hills with a castle overlooking the beautiful countryside.
We returned to the town in order to do some shopping, but there was little to buy, although the artists' quarter was very attractive.
   
We got back on the coach to get back to the ship which had moved on to Svistov, a little upstream. But neither the driver not the tour guide had been there before and we stopped several times asking for directions before we finally found the river and our ship. The access is very, very steep indeed and even the captain is out helping people down. There are, rather surprisingly, no accidents. Bruce was disappointed because he had set the camera to video mode in order to take a picture of someone bouncing down the steps and into the river. He intended to send it to "Are you being framed?" There’s a surprisingly evil side to Bruce, sometimes. The ship left Svistov at 17:30 - half an hour late. Would we lose time tomorrow for our short trip?

We had supper with Barbara and Doug and Eileen and Peter. Andreas the chef produced a spectacular dish with sparklers – very dramatic!

 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble