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After breakfast,
we all caught a crowded tram for the 40-minute journey from
the centre of Hiroshima to the small harbour and caught
the ferry for the short trip to Miyajima.
Miyajima (literally "shrine island")
has been celebrated as a sacred island and one of Japan's
three most scenic views. It is most famous for Itsukushima
Shrine, which, together with its large wooden torii (gate),
stands in the ocean during high tide. Deer move around the
island freely, and so do monkeys on top of Misen, the island's
highest mountain. The island becomes very romantic in the
evening when the tourist crowds return to the mainland and
only the visitors who stay overnight stroll the calm streets
in their yukata and geta, enjoying the sight of the illuminated
shrine. |
As we approached the harbour, we had some
good views of the famous Torii gate. |
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We made our way on foot to the nearby Miya Rikyu ryokan.
Again, modern on the outside, but a traditional Japanese
Onsen (spa). We were early, so left our luggage in the
lobby and set off to explore this world-famous site.
We first visited the Itsukushima Shrine. It was founded
in 593 and is built on stilts in a cove. At high tide
the building and its torii gate look as if they are floating
on the sea. The torii was originally built in the 12th
century by the war lord Taira no Kiyomori who also provided
funds for the shrine. The present structure dates from
1875 and is some 16m high. Its four legged style ("yo-tsuashi")
provides stability in the sea.
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We then walked
though the small town and up the stairs to the Daisho-in
Buddhist temple, with its fascinating mix of buildings. |
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By chance,
that day there was a demonstration of the tea ceremony,
and hundreds of ladies were there to learn how to do this.
Many were dressed in beautiful kimonos as they queued in
the warm Autumn sunshine. |
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Chris then took us on a walk up 530m high Mount Misen.
We made our way through a park with beautiful trees, including
maples and five star anise (thanks to Elizabeth who spotted
them), pausing for lunch, where we were mugged by the
"tame" deer, until some school children chased
them away. Then on to two cable cars, and a final 20 minute
climb to the top.
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We decided
to walk all the way down, as Chris advised us it would only
take an hour. Unfortunately, the route he planned to take
was closed due to typhoon damage, and we were obliged to
take a far harder route. It took three hours. Poor Narumi-san
twisted an ankle, and as Chris had scampered off like a
mountain goat, we and others helped her back. |
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We were nevertheless
back at 17:00 in time for sunset, as we had planned, and
saw the torii arch in the twilight. Beautiful. And now the
day trippers had gone home and the island was quiet. |
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We went back to our ryokan to take a much-needed shower
and change into our yukatas. They were more stylish (dark
grey stripe, no flowers) than the last place, but smaller.
So at dinner trying to sit cross-legged without displaying
one's underwear was quite a challenge for us all. We had
another banquet, which included such delights as barbequed
red snapper head (just the head...), and steak griddled
on a small skillet.
After dinner we went out for a walk wearing our wooden
pattens. The torii gate was stunning and Mars was shining
brightly overhead.
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