Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Cuzco

 
 
 
Day 5: Wednesday, 29th May 2002
 
This day offered us the luxury of a lie in - we did not have breakfast until 08:00!

Back onto the coach at 09:00 and we were off for more of the Inca trail. We head off once again up the beautiful Urubamba River valley. Our first stop was Q’enqo, a ruined Inca temple to the god of water which has a large sacred rock. We saw some amazing carvings.

 

As we left the site, a familiar face came up to us offering postcards. The man who had taken photos of us yesterday as we got onto our coach had turned them into postcards and somehow had tracked us down (a deal with the driver?). Most of them were quite good, but some were appalling. Either way, he sold most of them, either to send to friends or to destroy the evidence!

Next, Saqsayhuaman (known colloquially as "sexy woman"), a fortress above the city of Cuzco where the Incas would have retrenched in time of invasion.

 
 
Amazing stonework and great views over the whole town of Cuzco.
 
As we left the site, another man took photos of us - we wondered when and how he would track us down later...
 
We drove into Cuzco and arrived at the Libertador Hotel. Like a lot of central Cuzco, it is built on Inca foundations, very modern and comfortable. You can see the old Inca wall in the hotel – notably the bar where the back wall is one entire Inca construction!
 
The view from out room shows that local shops could do with a little roofing work!
 
Now at 11,000 ft above sea level, the altitude was making itself known and we had to take it easy or we became breathless. But the acclimatisation yesterday at Posada helped and no-one (except John) suffered from headaches or other symptoms. Nevertheless we all tried the coca tea (very bland) out of curiosity.

In the afternoon, Julian took us out for a walking tour of the city. We were due to have a coach tour, but it was Corpus Christi and the place was heaving.

Our first stop was the Convento Dominico, just around the corner from the hotel. It was built on the Inca temple of the sun, the most important building of Inca Cuzco.
 
 
 
The protelysing Catholics were determined to destroy everything they thought evil. However, the Incas knew more about building in Cuzco than the Spanish and their constructions were earthquake resistant – very necessary in this area which suffers from many earthquakes. Earthquakes destroyed the Convent a number of times, and only the Inca foundations remained standing. As a result one can still see parts of the Inca temple today. You could see how some of the arches were built into Inca walls.
 
Then we walked on to the main square (Plaza des Armas) which was full of people carrying statues of the saints from their local church to the Cathedral.
 
 
We went into the Cathedral. It was very impressive: more South American Baroque with silver and gold altar pieces and statues. All of the precious metals had been stripped from the Temple of the Sun, the 10ft high walls of which were originally entirely covered in gold sheets. The side chapels of the Cathedral were as big as some churches. (no photography allowed, so sorry no pictures!)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
It was now becoming dark and the fiesta was beginning to really go with a swing. we could hear music everywhere, as the brass bands which had come from the local villages to accompany their saints were now setting up as impromptu dance bands. All over the city was noise, drinking and dancing.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
We went down to one of the very lively street markets off the main square. It is very, very busy. There are dozens of food stalls, all of which specialise in one thing: roast guinea pig – not very appetising! - as well as little black sausages which we are told are guinea pig black pudding.
 
Guinea pig with peppers
 
Now the bad news. Julian warned us that to get to Machu Picchu tomorrow, we will need to leave very early... we held our collective breaths... and the wake up call would be at 04:00! We decided to have an early supper in the hotel and go to bed by 21:00.
 
 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble