Geoff Brock & Bruce Gamble
         
     

Day 11: Suzhou

 
 
 

Wednesday, 22nd September 1999

In and around Suzhou

   
 
... I should not have made fun of people's bowel problems yesterday. I have now been struck by a mysterious bug and Imodium is a necessity. At least we got a long lie in (till 7:30!). After a light breakfast we got on the coach at 9.00 to see the delights of Suzhou guided by Pan and Cindy.
 
 
 
Our first port of call was the Lingering Gardens - a play on words: the owner's name means "lingering" and one is meant to linger there. We did indeed have quite a long stay - 1 1/2 hours. Lots of hard landscaping and building, relieved by trees and bamboo, but little planting. Nevertheless, it was very beautiful and tranquil (despite us and groups of Germans and Japanese trooping round at the same time...)
 
There was also a very large Bonsai collection.
 
 
Pan gave us a lesson on Chinese gardens, in particular the rocks. Gardens must contain buildings, water, rocks and trees (nothing else being thought essential). Pan explained that the rocks were considered beautiful if they were slim, rough, had holes and were self cleaning.
Pan gave us a lesson on Chinese gardens, in particular the rocks. Gardens must contain buildings, water, rocks and trees (nothing else being thought essential). Pan explained that the rocks were considered beautiful if they were slim, rough, had holes and were self cleaning.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Back to the coach and on to the factory - the Suzhou Embroidery Research Institute.

We saw ladies embroidering the most amazing works of art; sometimes unwinding threads to use a single strand of silk to create delicate effects. The finished pictures could be single-sided or double-sided so that it could be viewed from either side - sometimes with a different picture on each side.

We were gobsmacked.

We saw a selection for sale and were smitten by a double sided picture we'd seen being made of two cranes on a bamboo branch. It cost 4,000 pounds and Bruce was mean and wicked and would not buy it. However, there was a smaller single sided picture of a magnolia for 150 pounds. I did a bit of negotiating and got a 10% discount. The buying frenzy had started again! Adrian looked at us: "You're worse than Ros!" he exclaimed.

 
 
Then on to an area of the old town to see the water gate - the only remaining part of the old wall. Very picturesque, but lots of hawkers.
 

Next stop a buffet lunch, but I only ate a dumpling and two Imodiums! Bruce said it was all very good.

After lunch, we drove to the nearby silk-making factory to see the silkworm larvae being boiled alive, their little homes unwoven to make pyjamas and their tiny bodies used as animal fodder. Pan said that sometimes people stir fried them and ate them. I'm not sure what's worse.

More shopping available, with silk duvets, shirts etc, but we remained good. Others shopped, however. Ros bought a silk duvet and Adrian looked slightly ill. "It's for the spare room", she said. "Oh no, it's not", he cried, "for that money, it's going on our bed and the guests can have our old one!"

 
 
Back to the hotel to drop stuff off and to jump into our "rickshaws" (actually, tricycle pedal cars)
for a tour of the old town. The highlight of a wonderful visit.
 
Dodging the traffic (very exciting - surely he's seen that car pulling out - surely he's going to give way - surely he's not going to try to squeeze between it and this bus two inches from our left - oh, we made it) and seeing old shops and streets and people smiling and waving saying "Nee hau" or "hello".
 
 
We stopped to see a market selling plants (I bought a bonsai pot for Y40 - knocked down from Y45) and birds, animals and even insects - crickets seem very popular. Bruce wound everyone up by telling them that the little puppies on sale were destined for the dinner table! (not true - probably).
 
Then another stop at a very old market with fruit and veg stalls. We didn't go in, but walked instead through the bustling residential streets. Simon went in a different direction and witnessed a chicken being slaughtered.
 
 
 
Back on to the rickshaw and on to the Longevity bridge, before going back to the hotel. A brilliant trip.
 
 

An hour before dinner and Bruce had a bad headache, so a short nap.

We departed at 6.30 for dinner at another local hotel. It was a good meal, finished off with three brandies, courtesy of Kuoni for Chris' birthday. For 3 pounds a bottle, it was not bad. Then back to the Master of the Nets Garden for a peripatetic musical evening. All the musicians were very accomplished, but unfortunately some of our party are accomplished Philistines and chatted and fidgeted throughout. The gardens were beautiful in the bright clear moonlight.

Back at 9.00 to pack. An early start tomorrow.

 
 
©Geoff Brock and Bruce Gamble