The next evening,
we waved good-bye to the good ship Novikov Priboy
and climbed aboard the "Tizhi Don" ("The
Quiet Don") express train back to Moscow. We
had twin berth sleeping compartments of fabulous
old-fashioned design. Each carriage had a lady to
serve tea, make beds and generally be helpful. Ours
spoke some English and was very sweet - and, unusually
for Russia, would not take a tip. The journey was
fascinating, rumbling along at fifty miles an hour
(did I say express?) through towns and villages.
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